![]() Remember, the limiter you installed only allows 14* of total movement so you cannot move it more than that. You just have to start at 134* and move from there. This is the logic the Tuning School spreadsheet does. If say you wanted to retard the cam 5 degrees, you would make the exhaust be 129* and the intake automatically becomes 99.5*. if you made the entire table 134* for the exhaust and 94.5* for the intake, you would be running max advance the entire time. Reminder, 134* is the ECU's "max retard" on the exhaust side, and therefore, using the same math of 228.5* less the exhaust, 134* and again you are at 94.5*. Same principal for the WOT tables, but here you have to interpret what is in the tune to your actual cam to understand what it is doing. So if you make the entire exhaust table 134*, then the remainder of 228.5* less 134* says your entire intake table should be 94.5*. There is some math to do there, easiest is to check what the stock tune provided for Intake plus Exhaust from each table in the same cells. ![]() You don't have to, but to have a "clean" tune, you would also go into the Intake Desired Angle Normal table and set this entire table to max advance. With the 270 cam, you are likely going to like the car best with the entire table set to 134* across the board. The Exhaust Desired Angle Normal table is used for idle, cruising. If you log your exhaust cam degree in the VCM scanner, I promise you will see 134* at idle and also if you were to just disable VVT in the tune, which results in running max advance at all times, you will see 134*. Max intake advance, or rather max exhaust retard, is 120 degrees plus max retard 14 degrees (your limited range), or 134 degrees. So back to the cam setup.Even the factory tune for the most part knows you should run max advance at startup, idling, and low end cruising. max exhaust retard) at lower rpms and cruising areas, and then at WOT you want to retard the cam past peak torque. So usually when tuning for a cam, you want max intake advance (i.e. Retarding will make low end suffer but can SOMETIMES provide more upper rpm range power (past say 5500 rpms). In general, advancing the cam will provide better idle, better lower end torque. So if you tell the ECU advance the intake side 14 degrees, the exhaust side gets RETARDED by the same exact amount. The dodge system is still a push rod, cam under head setup with ONE camshaft with both intake and exhaust "cams" on one stick, you cant move the intake side without the exhaust side moving too, its one hunk of metal. In your case you installed a limiter and now only have 14 degrees of movement. From there, a stock phaser has a total of 28* of movement, 14 degrees advance and 14 degrees retard from the stock 120 degree location. When your motor, or any motor, is in time and properly setup, the exhaust cam position will read 120 degrees as its centerline. The camshaft position sensor gets its reading off of the reluctor wheel that is part of the cam timing chain, which you have not changed. So heres how it all works.the VVT part of your tune does not care or know that you have installed a different than stock cam.
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